The Aporia · Photos: Kashmir’s 600-year-old Wazwan wedding feast adapts to modern life

Photographs depict the preparation of Wazwan, a traditional multi-course mutton feast central to Kashmiri wedding celebrations that dates back to the 14th century. The feast is both a symbol of social status and cultural identity. Ghulam Nabi Baba, a 74-year-old veteran chef from Srinagar’s old city, explains how his family has adapted Wazwan over centuries, increasing the number of dishes from seven to around twenty today. While traditional cooking methods remain unchanged, modern life pressures are causing younger generations like Baba's son to adapt by opening restaurants instead of working weddings full-time.

Written by AI on 2026-10-02, from this article's own text only (the story summary below draws on all the coverage).

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In Pictures highlights how Wazwan, a traditional Kashmiri feast with roots tracing back to the 14th century, remains integral to weddings in Kashmir as autumn approaches. The multi-course mutton meal is prepared by skilled chefs using wooden mallets and has evolved from its origins in Central Asia. Veteran Wazwan chef Ghulam Nabi Baba, aged 74, explains how his family’s lineage includes early migrants who settled in Srinagar's old city as part of a community known as Wazpora. Initially comprising just seven mutton dishes, today the feast features around 20 courses, with the quantity and variety indicating the hosts’ social status and wealth. For example, Baba recalls cooking an astounding 4,500kg (9,920 pounds) of meat for a lavish wedding in Delina village forty years ago, while typical weddings use about 200kg (440 pounds) of meat. Despite modern adaptations, Wazwan remains a powerful symbol of Kashmiri identity and heritage.

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In Pictures As autumn approaches, the rhythmic thud of wooden mallets pounding lamb echoes across courtyards and back lanes in Kashmir, where cooks prepare Wazwan – a lavish, multi-course mutton feast that remains central to traditional wedding celebrations. asserted

that → approach → celebrations

Wazwan arrived in the valley from Central Asia in the 14th century, when rulers brought skilled chefs along with the carpet and shawl weavers that later defined the region’s craft heritage. asserted

that → arrive → heritage

Among its guardians is 74-year-old Ghulam Nabi Baba, a veteran Wazwan chef who traces his lineage to those early migrants. asserted

who → trace → migrants

His forefathers settled in Srinagar’s old city as part of a community of cooks known as Wazpora. asserted

forefathers → settle → Wazpora

Over the centuries we added more, and now there are around 20,” Baba said. asserted

Baba → add → more

He explained how the number of dishes and the amount of meat often reflect a family’s wealth. asserted

number → explain → wealth

“Forty years ago in Delina [a village in north Kashmir] I cooked 4,500kg (9,920 pounds) of meat. asserted

I → cook → meat

Normally, at an average marriage we cook 200kg (440 pounds),” he added. asserted

he → cook → kg

Despite the expanding menu, the core techniques have changed little. asserted

techniques → expand → menu

Lightly spiced meat is still pounded by hand before being simmered slowly over wood fires – a labour-intensive process Baba has followed since joining his father as a cook at 15. asserted

Baba → pound → 15

But the pressures of modern life are reshaping the tradition. asserted

pressures → reshape → tradition

Baba’s son has chosen to open a restaurant rather than work weddings, saying the round-the-clock demands are too exhausting. asserted

demands → choose → clock

He believes he is still carrying forward the family’s centuries-old culinary legacy – just in a different setting, as Wazwan adapts to contemporary tastes and lifestyles. asserted

Wazwan → believe → tastes

Photos: Kashmir’s 600-year-old Wazwan wedding feast adapts to modern life

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