People are running to board the ferry – running.
asserted
People → run → ferry
And not because they’re late.
asserted
they → ’re → ?
The New Camellia isn’t due to depart for another three hours.
asserted
Camellia → depart → hours
Still, as I walk down the long boarding hall towards the gangway multiple people push past, trying to hurry while also dragging heavy luggage, puffing as they lollop along.
asserted
they → walk → luggage
It takes a while for the penny to drop, to figure out what the rush is about.
asserted
rush → take → what
If you’ve booked a second-class cabin on the New Camellia for this eight-hour overnight journey from Busan to Fukuoka, you don’t have an assigned spot on board.
asserted
you → book → board
So if you want first dibs on the sleeping spaces, if you want to be by the wall or the door and avoid lying in the middle of the floor squished between a whole lot of strangers, you have to hustle.
asserted
you → want → strangers
But let’s rewind.
asserted
’s → let → ?
Those flights start around $100, and take an hour.
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flights → start → 100
But what if you like doing things differently?
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you → do → things
If you like mixing up your modes of transport, if you want to reduce your carbon footprint, if you want to save on a night’s accommodation and you have a spirit for adventure – then, the New Camellia starts to look attractive.
asserted
Camellia → like → adventure
This isn’t a luxury vessel, so don’t be fooled into thinking you will get all the mod-cons.
asserted
you → fool → cons
If you book a second-class ticket on the 522-passenger New Camellia, operated by the Camellia Line, you will be entitled to a space on the floor of a shared cabin, where you will be able to lay down a Japanese-style futon and try to sleep.
asserted
you → book → futon
If you opt for first class, you will have a private, two-bunk room with a small writing table and a basin, though you will have to walk to the shared bathroom for a shower or to use the toilet.
asserted
you → opt → toilet
Shell out for deluxe class, meanwhile, and you get two single, Western-style beds and a private bathroom.
asserted
you → shell → beds
I’ve gone for first class, which means I will have to schlepp to the toilet in the middle of the night, but I won’t have to sprint down the boarding hall in the hopes of getting onto the ferry first.
asserted
I → go → ferry
The ferry doesn’t leave the dock in Busan until 10.30pm, but boarding begins at 7.30pm.
asserted
boarding → leave → 7.30pm
Before that, you need to check in at the main counter, and also get through Korean border control, which most people like to do as early as possible so they can line their luggage up in a neat queue by the door, effectively bagging their spot at the front.
asserted
they → need → front
Once on board, we all have plenty of time to peruse the limited facilities on a ship that’s more about function than form.
asserted
that → have → form
There’s a restaurant on board, though it only serves basic cafeteria-style meals, and it does that for just an hour at night – 8pm to 9pm – and an hour in the morning, from 6.30am.
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it → ’ → 6.30am
There’s a room filled with Japanese vending machines selling drinks and hot meals, though if you don’t have Japanese yen in cash you won’t be able to use them.
asserted
you → ’ → them
You will have to wait, like me, for the little kiosk to open at 8.30pm so you can grab a cold beer and some snacks and pay with a card.
asserted
you → have → card
Most of the passengers tonight are smart and have brought their own food on board.
asserted
Most → bring → board
You see them crowded around little tables in the public areas sharing huge platters of seafood and grilled meats and rice.
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them → see → seafood
I have brought my own Korean fried chicken with kimchi and, with a cold can of Asahi, life doesn’t get much better.
asserted
life → bring → Asahi
Tuck yourself into bed, enjoy the gentle rocking of the Korea Strait and, before you know it, the ferry has arrived in Fukuoka, and all the passengers are already downstairs arranging their luggage into a queue so they can be the first through Japanese passport control.
They’ll run to get there, too.
asserted
They → tuck → control
But that’s surely because there’s decent coffee on the other side.
asserted
that → ’ → side
THE DETAILS
FERRY
The New Camellia ferry travels nightly from Busan to Fukuoka (and the reverse during the day), with second-class spaces starting from ¥9000 ($82), and first-class rooms from ¥12,000 ($110) a person.
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ferry → travel → 12,000
See insidejapantours.com for packages that include this journey.
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that → see → journey
The writer travelled as a guest of InsideJapan.
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writer → travel → InsideJapan
The Aporia
